Spring Days Out in the Cotswolds

Five fabulous Cotswold gardens to visit this spring

The first sunshine of the year warming your skin, birdsong in the morning and at dusk, the smell of cut grass filling the air (if you could smell the colour green, that’s how it would smell) and colour lighting up the landscape. That is spring, a season you can enjoy in all its glory in the Cotswolds, where the landscape seems tailor-made to take the pastoral symphony to a virtuoso performance.

With the weather improving and the May bank holidays looming closer, the excitement is building; ahead of us are sunny days out in the countryside, to enjoy with our nearest and dearest. There are plenty of options, but if you are into nature and truly idyllic locations, the following destinations are not to be missed.

1. Highgrove Gardens.  The Garden tours at Highgrove, the official residence of HRH the Prince of Wales, just outside Tetbury, are a truly delightful way to spend a morning or an afternoon. They are informative and entertaining and they give you a real glimpse of the man and inspiration behind the gardens. The gardens are varied and full of surprising and charming elements and reflect a personal touch and love of nature. You need to book in advance and you can finish your visit with a lovely afternoon tea in the garden restaurant.
2. North Cerney House Gardens. A little hidden gem in North Cerney, between Cirencester and Cheltenham, North Cerney House Gardens are an enchanting example of a walled garden. Set on the hillside, the garden is eclectic in style, and reminiscent of a cottage garden. Ornamental plants and fruit trees, woodland and vegetable garden make for an eclectic and varied landscape and an interesting walk through the meandering paths. You can make a cup of tea and help yourself to biscuits for a small donation. It feels like visiting the home of a long-lost relative, it is homely and picturesque and entirely unique!
3. Sudely Castle Gardens.
   

   

   
   Sudeley castle is a major attraction in its own right, having played host to kings and queens, from Henry VIII to Elizabeth I, and most notably, having been the residence of Katherine Parr, the last of Henry VIII’s wives. A tip for those of you who want to capture the true spirit of this historic jewel: come on a weekday, outside of the school holidays. I did, and had the exclusive pleasure of wandering alone along the atmospheric corridors of the castle, hearing only the creaking of the floorboards under my footsteps. The gardens though, merit a special mention in their own right, delivering on a grand scale in spring when tulips and roses bring a vibrant burst of colour to the hedged lawns. The garden is as intriguing as the castle and steeped in its rich history. Queen Katherine used to cross it daily to the church, where she is now buried, accompanied by the ill-fated Lady Grey. Two topiary silhouettes have been erected in the garden to commemorate this. Take time to learn about the White Garden, the Secret Garden, the Queen’s Garden, the Tudor Physic Garden and many more.
   

   
4. Westonbirt Arboretum.
   

   

   
   Always a great destination to feast in the glory of nature, no matter what the season. We have written before about how amazing this venue is. I have been a member for almost 20 years and can’t imagine life without it. It is a proper haven for the soul. In spring, it is a feast of azaleas, magnolias, rhododendrons and tender green buds signalling the awakening of the great woodland collection. There is a bird observatory too for your little ones to enjoy watching some nest building in progress. Take a picnic or feast on the lovely food at the Restaurant if you build up an appetite!
5.  Painswick Rococo Gardens
   

   

   
   . Between Stroud and Cheltenham, Painswick is a small, sleepy village on the hillside, playing host to some rather spectacular gardens. The Rococo gardens, from the mid 1700s, are not about neat geometric patterns but about bucolic splendour, fairy-tale woodland with unexpected follies, chattering brooks amid valleys of wild garlic and meandering paths in dappled shade. At every turn, you are treated to another breath-taking, picturesque vista, punctuated by an Indian pavilion here, a Moorish temple there, a Bavarian castle over yonder. Quite extraordinary.
   

   
   . The valley must be echoing with oohs and aahs of past visitors. Imagine the fun this venue must have provided the illustrious guests of the lavish parties back in the 1700s. Apparently, they selected special plants with foliage that would help reflect the moonlight! Picture the ladies wearing flowing crinoline dresses, gently brushing against the ground, the sweet smelling evening breeze playing with their elegantly gathered locks.  It is a fantastic spot for a woodland walk and a period drama. And it has a maze where you can loose…I mean, keep your kids entertained for a while!
   

   

Westonbirt Arboretum: New Year cleansing for body and soul

Whenever the mind feels fuzzy with too much screen exposure, late nights or just the hectic pace of life and the body heavier with too much indulgence and inactivity I find the perfect cure lies in a walk in the woods. It literally brings you back to earth and makes you appreciate the beauty of our natural world. The clear oxygenated air, the fragrance of the trees, the silence and the beauty of a forest is one of the great collective wonders of life – if only we stopped often enough to appreciate it. A walk in the one of the great cathedrals of nature always regales you with a sense of perspective and an appreciation for the bigger picture as well as gratitude for our wonderful environment.

We are particularly blessed in the Cotswolds for the sheer variety and beauty of our woodland: two of the Forestry Commission’s arboreta – Westonbirt and Batsford – and the wondrous Savernake forest are all on our doorstep. There are few worthier destinations for the woodland walker than Westonbirt Arboretum, just outside Tetbury. It is divided into two parts: the old arboretum, an amazing collection of international renown of trees and shrubs from all over the globe, and Silkwood, a lovely hillside covered by indigenous woodland.

The old arboretum is for those who appreciate the beauty and variety of the plant world  – who take pleasure in recognizing a sweet chestnut from a horse chestnut, an oak from an acer, a yew from a pine. You can walk along the seasonal paths of the arboretum, dazzled by the fiery reds, yellows and oranges of the acers in the autumn, by the floral explosion of the azaleas in the spring, enjoying the cool shade of the leafy London planes in the summer, but if you catch the arboretum in the winter snow you are in for a true fairytale experience. If you are a dog walker, Silkwood is the part of the arboretum where you can enjoy a great scenic walk while your canine companion can feel like he is really stretching his legs.

Whatever the season, I always feel like a kid discovering a magical place in the arboretum, a kind of Alice in wonderland. There is a special suspended atmosphere that puts us humans back where we truly belong, as part of nature’s rich tapestry. I have been a member of the arboretum for almost two decades, my kids have been going for walks there since they were babes in arms; it has helped them appreciate the value of nature and its soothing, uplifting effect.

Once you have paid your dues and reacquainted yourself with nature and topped yourself up on the ozone-enriched air, what a great treat to have that warming hot chocolate, coffee or tea in the lovely wooden cafe. In the summer you can sit out on the wooden deck and enjoy the warming sunshine too. And no visit is complete without a visit to the delightful gift shop, with a great selection of quality wooden ornaments, kids toys, stationery, sweets and biscuits, gifts and outdoor clothing.

If you find yourself thinking that the same collection of trees might get a bit samey after a few visits, the arboretum plays host to a variety of events that always have something to offer, from large-scale events like Enchanted Forest in winter, when the arboretum is lit up into a Christmas fairyland, to smaller activities such as workshops and guided walks.

If you can start a new healthy habit for the new year, there’s nothing I’d recommend more than becoming a member of this wonderful establishment. It is a modest investment (£38), for a year’s worth of blissful walks  – good for both the mind and the body. What’s more, this membership doesn’t only get you into Westonbirt, it gets you in to the smaller but no less enchanting Batsford Arboretum and many others besides. For more information, visit https://www.forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt

 

The Burford Garden Company

The first thing you should know about the Burford Garden Company is that it is not a garden centre. I feel I would be misleading you to call it so. It is so much more. An art gallery and a home furnishings shop, a gift shop and a delicatessen, a toy shop, a toiletries shop, a kitchenalia emporium, a fine clothing and hat outlet – all under one roof. Perhaps the term ’emporium’ is best suited to give an idea of the wide array of goods and items you can find at the Burford Garden Company. The feeling of abundance you get by walking around, taking in the wonderful displays – not least in the food section – is bound to enduce euphoria. In a way, I’d say it’s like the Harrods of the Cotswolds, the rural, approachable version of the urban, upmarket, has-everything store.

The second thing to note is that everything you will find here can be guaranteed to be top quality, the best of the best. Sometimes, with a price tag to match. But if your coffers are not overflowing or you are on an austerity drive, this place is still for you. You can still spend a delightful couple of hours here without spending anything. It is a visual delight, a journey of discovery every time we visit this place; beautiful ornaments for your home you are unlikely to find elsewhere, that speak of style and refinement and inspire you to think up a whole new theme for your dwelling. From candles and carpets to sofas and lamps, throws and rugs, in a variety of opulent hues and styles to delight your senses, there is enough here to turn anyone into a wannabe interior designer. Even the basics like greetings cards, stationery and wrapping paper are different and unusual.

My favourite is the food and kitchenalia section though. With its cornucopia of quality ingredients and treats from all over the world and colourful utensils – it inspires me to embark on a new cooking or baking adventure every time. Talk about transporting. Whether it is the range of mediterranean olive oils or the substantial breads  – from the sourdough to the focaccias or the middle eastern inspired cakes, it is difficult not to end up salivating at the prospect of such a feast. Beautiful olive wood chopping boards and bright crockery and tableware are there too: a great place to pick up a gift for your cheffy friends!

And we have not event mentioned the garden section: that which gives the place its official and perhaps initial raison d’être.  The impressive selection of plants and shrubs and vases and garden ornaments – including garden furniture and paving – mean that all bases are covered, whether you’re merely after a new Cyclamen to sit on the kitchen windowsill or brand new patio complete with shed and conservatory. Me, I love the orchid section: shelves covered with a tumbling display of these plants once considered achingly rare, now so abundant they sit batched together by colour, making you feel like you are in the tropics. And you can pick the best branded wellington boots, gloves and hats, should you wish to look the part while you are communing with nature.

When I was last there, I heard beautiful piano music emanating from the home furnishings section; as I followed it humming to myself, I discovered it came from a real live performance, a lady pianist was delighting us all with her improvisation. What a great initiative! We stopped and chatted for a while, and I dreamt of finding the time to take lessons and learn to play that great instrument. Another one for the retirement list.

When your eyes are full and your legs are tired, you can do worse than to sample the very good food and beverages of the cafe/restaurant there; hot and cold food, roast meat and vegetables, sandwiches and delicious cakes. I do recommend the salads. I had a very tasty quinoa, cauliflower, herbs, fruit and nuts salad. It was both delicious and healthy. My husband and our little girl had roast dinner and the intent silence that descended on the table testified to the satisfaction of all concerned. The cafe is a very nice place to stop and watch the crowds mill around and chat; always lively and looking cheerfully decadent, like the rest of the place.

And as we enter into December and the Christmas season, I am excited to go discover the Christmas section. It is something to behold. The displays are on a grand scale and the range and quality of the decorations are exceptional. Pick your colour theme or your style  – red, white, silver, gold, woodland naif or elegant Liberty? The spectacle can’t fail to put you in the mood for singing Christmas carols all the way back home!

Abbey Home Farm, Cirencester

Sometimes you feel the need to go somewhere unfussy and cheerful, where the values that inspire the business transpire into what you see and what you buy. The love for nature and respect for the environment inform how Abbey Home Farm shop and coffee shop are run. It is the very essence of the place. It is a calm yet joyful milieu, with an abundance of seasonal produce grown on the land around the farm or sourced from other organic growers. The flavour of the fruit and vegetables you acquire here is such that it will take your dishes to a whole new level. Beyond veg, you can buy meat, grains, pulses, cakes and confectionery here, all of which taste great. As a keen cook I am a strong believer in letting the natural flavours of quality ingredients speak for themselves; I remember getting a leg of lamb here for Easter lunch and my guests were hugely complimentary about how it tasted – it really made all the difference!

I love coming here even if it’s just to hang out. Whatever the season, you always have a sense of it by the produce on the shelves and the surrounding countryside, whether it’s pumpkin and mushroom-laden shelves in the autumn or gorgeous bunches of assorted field flowers and an abundance of tomatoes and courgettes in the summer. There is a lovely area out front with some wooden chairs and tables where you can enjoy your drinks and food from the coffee shop and restaurant, under the trees, and let the kids play free-range on the climbing frame and swings.

Inside, the restaurant is a light and airy place with lovely views over the surrounding countryside. It’s not fancy, but it’s not meant to be. They do a mean roast dinner on a Sunday and great trays of succulent roast vegetables during the week as well as colourful, scrumptious, nutritious salads. The cakes are not elaborate or refined either but they positively burst with flavour. The lemon drizzle, polenta and orange or flapjacks are all robust and satisfying.

The farm runs seasonal events too: I once came here for a cookery course, invited by a friend of mine who had received it as a Christmas present. It was a one-dayer on their house salads – and it was a thoroughly pleasant experience. I picked up some great tips, too. There is normally a farm day in the summer, with tractor rides and access to the animals on the farm for the amusement of kids and adults alike. Out at the back of the shop there is an area devoted to furniture and gifts, as well as some natural cosmetic ranges and some books too. Enough to keep you interested and amused for a good half hour.

With all that is on offer in town, it is so easy to overlook Abbey Home Farm (or the Organic Farm, as we call it at home). But it is an oversight that is easily corrected if you just want to pick up a few groceries and maybe get a bite to eat. We have made a promise to ourselves that we will make the effort to get there more often, and we think that you should too. And as it’s autumn with all the fantastic flavour the season offers, there’s probably no better time.

 

Bank Holiday Special

On One of My Favourite Shops in Cirencester

Following on from my midweek withering a few weeks back on the unintended consequences of the Market Place refurbishment, I am taking this opportunity – and what better time than on a Bank Holiday weekend – to turn to the positive in penning this  paean to one of my favourite shops in Cirencester. You’re going to have to go with me on this, as it is perhaps a trifle unexpected, but for years now, it has been – and still is – one of those places where I will almost go looking for an excuse to go and buy something. I realise that may say more about me than I should perhaps be comfortable with, but let’s give me the benefit of the doubt, and take a moment to appreciate the wonder that is Gardiner Haskins. Like I said: go with me on this.

I don’t know about you, but thinking back to my childhood, I seem to remember that nearly every Sunday morning was spent not in Church (despite my parents’ best efforts) but in the DIY superstores that began to spring up on the edge of towns around the UK. While I know such trip were unremittingly dull for some, perhaps even most, kids, I have to admit to liking them. Perhaps it was the size of the likes of Sandford’s, – remember them? – Texas, and the others whose names I forget, that impressed me, or perhaps it was the thought that this trip marked the starting point for the creation of something exciting at home; to this day I retain fond memories of those places, which may go some way to explaining my liking for Gardiner’s.

But this not just pure nostalgia we are talking here.

I like the fact that is in the centre of town, rather than stuck out on the periphery of the town. I am not, in general, a fan of those out-of-town shopping centres. I know they have their place, but one of the things I like about Ciren is that the town centre is a proper nucleus that holds the rest of the town together, and so to have a town centre where nearly everything you might need is obtainable is a wonderful thing: it is to Cirencester’s great credit, that it houses a shop that you would, under normal circumstances expect to be relegated wallflower-like to the periphery.

Also, it has its own carpark. Again, I suspect that that is a fact that often goes unnoticed, but one that deserves at least a modicum of acknowledgment, not to mention appreciation. In my case it verges on the ridiculous that I drive there, but with the winter  – not to mention the recent downpours – we’ve had, I’ve even less compulsion to walk. I can’t help it but it is a facility I like to make use of when I have cause to shop there: even in a town where it’s relatively cheap and easy (most of the time) to park for any length of time, one feels as though it’d be madness not to use it.

Another thing I like is that it has a back entrance to add to the one out the front, something which, like the car park, may not be much to recommend anywhere, but how many stores in the town can actually boast that? Calling it a store rather than a shop is particularly apposite; it’s not just a place where we – yes, more of us than we might think – go to part with our money and walk out with something, it is that we know Gardiner’s is where things are kept for us when we most need to go an buy them. This is something one finds all too rarely. Granted, in the kitchen section for example, it has many items you’d be able to find in Steamer Trading a few salubrious metres up the road, but it has the more mundane stuff as well. Personally, I feel comforted that if ever I have an urgent need for a new frying pan and some kettle descaler, I can pop along to Gardiner’s and be able to find what I’m after, and even get a recommendation from one of the generally very knowledgeable staff as to what one is best.

I’m a big fan of the in-store recommendation; when one is in the market for something, even for such mundanities as caustic calcium removal products, it brightens one’s day to get not just a recommendation, but one with a pros versus cons summary as part of the package. It almost makes me want to go shopping for some lawn feed, and I don’t even have a lawn. We may be used to well-trained and knowledgeable staff in our town, possibly even overprovided for it, but here they take this to another, almost gloriously obsequious, level. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not about the attention – most of the time I heave a sigh of relief if left unbothered by in-store staff – but it is such a delight to see service and attention to detail still being seen as important. It makes a difference.

The minute you walk through the door (either one), you know that this is shopping that is slightly removed from the norm, but in a very good way. Whether it’s from the front into the midst of all the kitchenalia, or from the back where one is greeted by four-way gang plugs, coaxial cables – well, cables, anyway – and possibly even hanging baskets on special offer. From there you can go in many directions – time was when I used to lose my bearings in there – and end up in paint, the aforementioned GreenGro or whatever it’s called, even upstairs to lighting and furniture (both indoor occasional and outdoor): the world is your domestic necessities oyster.

So, there we have it. Next time you need some bin bags or some more clothes pegs, first make sure you actually go to Gardiner’s for them. Then take a moment and look around to discover what is actually in there and consider the sheer amount of useful and not-so-useful – who really wants a DVD of the London Midland Scottish Railway between the wars – stuff that they have: it really is remarkable. I, for one, am very happy that we have a shop like Gardiner’s in our town centre. I treasure its presence, and I think we all should.

The magnificent seven – for location

 

The Black Horse, Amberley. Luscious views over the Stroud valley.

The Lock Cafe in Stroud. A canal-side haven.

The Crown at Frampton Mansell. Cotswold bucolic splendour

So you are not content with good food, quality coffee and luscious cakes. You want somewhere that will feed your eyes and soul too. Green pastures, shimmering water and verdant valleys dotted with cute stone cottages, plumes of blue smoke rising from their chimneys…Not a problem, in our picturesque region – all you need to do is know where to go – and we are glad to point you in the direction of a few beauty spots we treasure…

1. The Crown at Frampton Mansell. A delightful traditional pub with excellent food and a lively atmosphere, perched on a beauty spot with remarkable views and a sunny terrace. True bucolic splendour.
2. The Black Horse in Amberley. A pub full of character, just off the spectacular Minchinghampton common, set in the enchanting village of Amberley. the terraced garden has amazing views over the Stroud Valley. Well frequented by the local rural elite!
3. The Upper Lock Cafe in Stroud. A charming, cosy hideaway cafe with personality, an organic vibe and a canal-side setting. Lovely cakes and healthy salads!
4. The Campden Coffee Co in Chipping Campden. Set in lovely Chipping Campden, one of the jewels of the Cotswolds, Campden Coffee Co is light and bright – a lovely relaxed environment where you can relax over a decent coffee and some delicious cakes and snacks.
5. The Bell at Sapperton. A refined pub and restaurant serving excellent food in a  charming village location with a delightful garden area. A top choice with the Cotswold elite!
6. Gusto in Cheltenham. In fashionable Montpellier, the Italian inspired cafe serves tasty food in the leafy part of town, overlooking the park and next to some of the best boutiques for some choice shopping!
7. The rooftop restaurant at the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford upon Avon. Fancy some refreshments before or after your Shakespeare fix in Stratford? The rooftop restaurant at the Royal Shakespeare Company affords great views over the river Avon and is perfect for your pre-theatre dining or indeed for a post-shopping treat! Elegant surroundings and food alike.

Campden Coffee Co.

Chipping Campden, a quintessential and genteel Cotswold village amid bucolic splendour, is definitely worth a visit. Explore its picturesque streets and discover enchanting spaces, impressive mansions, refined restaurants and fine boutique hotels, all behind a rustic Cotswold stone facade. Should you require refreshments, the Campden Coffee Co. will provide a charming, rustic, and intimate environment where you can relax and enjoy some decent beverages, tasty and imaginative cakes and savoury food snacks. What I find delightful is that at the Campden Coffee Co. you can never forget you are in the Cotswolds – the stone walls, the unvarnished wood furniture, the cottage garden views from the windows – are all consistent with the local environment.

The cakes are innovative – try the red wine and fig cake, so flavoursome and redolent of the region’s Roman connections, that you could almost imagine it being served in one of the triclinia of the roman villas that dotted the Cotswolds a couple of millennia ago. The paninis and sandwiches are tasty and made with local ingredients and the atmosphere is one of village conviviality. Light and bright with friendly service, the coffee shop is situated in the Old Silk Mill – also home to the Gallery at the Guild – a cooperative of artists and craftspeople exhibiting their work in the historic home of the Guild of Handicraft. You can delight your senses for a while and browse through works of pottery, painting, jewellery and more.

The coffee is their own brand and when you look at the beans in the grinder they are a tantalising dark brown. Dark roast coffee is not my personal favourite, but this is still a coffee that is a cut above your average Costa or Starbucks. A guest roast might be a nice addition, perhaps. The hot chocolate received approval from the youngest in our party, doubtless won over by the calorific addition of cream and marshmallows, but still, who would blame her. A nice touch, and one that I always take time to appreciate, is the bottle of water, complete with glasses for you to help yourself to. There are lovely soft drinks as well: two – yes, two – variants of Elderflower Pressé, and the Folkington’s juices are spot on, and cloudy as ever!

This may sound like a place for the sophisticates, but it really is somewhere for the whole family, kids and all. There is a lightness to the place, and the presence of some broad games on the shelves, definitely makes Campden Coffee Co. a place to take the whole family. Our junior reviewer said it was nice, and the cakes were “very interesting”. While we did not get to sample the hot food, we will be sure to head back there for lunch some time this summer. For now, if you’re there, pay it a visit, and see what you think.

The Cirencester Blog

Welcome to Cirencetera, The Cirencester Blog.

If you care about drinking good coffee in interesting surroundings, you are passionate about quality food and enjoy exploring the idyllic Cotswold countryside, this blog might well be for you.

Being residents here, we regularly embark on weekend expeditions to explore our beautiful countryside and seek out little gems – coffee shops with character in dreamy historical settings; eateries serving fresh, local delicacies; tiny churches that dot the area providing calm and charm. We’ve visited many already and we’ll share them with you.

So, if you find yourself  in need of an artisan coffee, or fancy a slab of delicious home-made cake after a long (or short, short works well) walk through enchanting hillside villages, we may have something to offer. If you’re constantly asking yourself where can I taste the best vegetarian cuisine while watching the world go by in a little market town full of bustle, or where is the best place to enjoy a hearty, wholesome brunch in front of an open fire, scanning the Sunday papers you may find some agreeable answers to these questions and more.

We’d like to share our experience of what life in the Cotswolds is really like, through little snippets of everyday life – overheard conversations and witnessed cameos of family life  and anecdotes that go beyond the glossy exterior.

We welcome all your feedback so we can improve our content and we look forward to sharing our love of beautiful places, food and coffee with like-minded people. So here goes.